AEG Stove and Oven Repair

The door stayed locked after a pyrolytic clean. The lock motor or the thermal switch that confirms the cavity has cooled. A pyrolytic cycle runs far hotter than anything else, so this is the moment a marginal lock finally fails. The oven is fine; the lock is not.

An induction zone will not detect a pan, or drops out under load. Coil, the cooling fan beneath the hob, or the power board. A zone that works from cold and cuts out once things are hot is pointing at cooling first. On models with bridging zones, one failed coil can also disable the linked pair.

The hob shuts itself down and beeps. Usually overheating rather than a coil fault — and very often caused by a drawer packed too full directly beneath the hob, blocking its ventilation slot. Free to check before booking anyone.

Baking has gone uneven. The convection fan, its element, or a temperature sensor drifting out of true. AEG ovens surround the fan with their own element rather than relying on the bake element, so an oven that heats but no longer circulates points there.

The food probe reads wrong or is ignored. On SenseCook models the probe is a serviceable part and its socket is a common failure point. Owners tend to work around it for months, which rather defeats the point of an oven bought to cook to core temperature.

The steam function has stopped. Water reservoir, the inlet path or the element that generates steam. Scale from Toronto water is a genuine cause, and the oven bakes normally while the steam side is dead.

If the ventilation above is struggling, AEG rangehood repair covers it.